Saturday, July 30, 2016

News and Terroir

Hay bales at Castelbon, Betchat, France 11 x 14 oil on board.
Sitting in a park in Paris, France, reading the news and it sure looks bad. They won’t give peace a chance, that was just a dream some of us had. - Joni Mitchell, from Blue

The news is bad lately, especially from France; my heart hurts from the atrocities and suffering. Following another horrific attack, a U.S. presidential nominee tweeted that “France is no longer France.” I am back on the blog to report that this is not true. France is very much still France.

I recently returned from a sojourn in France to visit my friend Noelle at her lovely artist residency, Bordeneuve. Each year she welcomes painters, composers, writers, film makers and other artists to stay and create in a spectacularly peaceful and enriching environment. I’ve been painting in France since 2001, and this was my 5th year at Bordeneuve. Arriving there is like coming home.

Trout before dinner - caught fresh from the river near
Niaux by my friend and wine expert Jerome Garcia.
The scenery – the greenery, coming from drought-stricken Southern California – is gorgeous, the rain delightful, even when it keeps me from painting en plein air. Bordeneuve is surrounded by forest and field; bird song in the morning is loud enough to be irritating, especially pre-dawn. Being there is transformative, as I become the painter I need to be, free of external distractions, nourished by the surroundings and the people I’ve come to know, and the local cheeses, produce, meats and wines.

A  perfect melon, 14 x 11" oil on board.
The French have a term, terroir, familiar to wine connoisseurs, to describe the environmental and climate conditions specific to a place that influence what grows or is produced there. For me, a painting is a product of terroir as well, influenced by the place it is created. What I learn when I paint there accompanies me home and continues to influence my work and my life. Many of my favorite painters were French – Monet, Manet, Matisse, Cezanne, Chardin, Fantin la Tour; others, like Sargent and Van Gogh, spent many years there. Over the years I have stood in their studios, wandered through the places they lived and painted, tried to soak up the essence of places that spoke to them.

At the Saturday market in St. Girons, I select produce based on beauty so I can paint it before I eat it. I believe that people are also part of terroir. The farmer asks which day you plan to eat a melon, so she can select one that will be perfectly ripe on that day. I buy chèvre from the cheese monger I first met 5 years ago, and the same goes for the pâté and saucisson. Running into friends, we exchange bises (kisses on both cheeks) and conversation (this year, much on Brexit). Every day I read, walk, paint, nap, do yoga; eat, sleep, repeat. C’est parfait.

Quick 6 x 8" oil on canvas sketch at
Niaux, in the Pyrenees.
Ann Raver, the former garden writer at the New York Times, once wrote that when the ancients were sick, they walked among trees and plants and breathed the fresh air to soothe their pain. For me, travel is a balm for the soul as well, and visiting Bordeneuve is a restorative antidote to bad news in the world.

I read this week that fewer tourists are travelling to France out of fear. I think about it every time I board a plane; perhaps it will be my last trip. But the thought of not going is far more dreadful; and beyond that, the thought of allowing other horrible people to succeed in making me afraid is anathema. That includes one current U.S. presidential nominee.

Girolles et Artichauds (chanterelles & artichokes)
11 x 14" oil on board, as delicious as it was beautiful!
Joni Mitchell sings that France is “too old, and cold, and settled in its ways,” as she longed for her home in California. I long for France from my home in California, so coming home I have to ask: “Will you take me as I am, strung out on another man? California, I'm coming home.” 


Here I am, home again, but with France in my heart, hoping for better news, looking forward to the next time. Vive la France. 





Saturday, May 2, 2015

He taught me a lot, my dad

My dad died suddenly last week. It was a strange and unexpected loss. We had been losing him slowly
Billy circa 1931
to Alzheimer’s, and in some ways it was as if he were already gone, yet he wasn’t. He was still having coffee in the morning, enjoying an afternoon walk, posing for goofy photos. Mostly he just shuffled around in a fog, fidgeting with doors.
     Dad taught me many things, for better or worse. He took me to Mutiny on the Bounty – the brutal, 1935 version with Charles Laughton as Captain Bligh. I was 7, and terrified, but it was a cinematic tour de force and he figured it wouldn’t come around again (he was right). Around the same time, he dropped me on my head and knocked a tooth out during our bedtime ritual, which I loved: he would throw me over his shoulder and grab my ankles to carry me upstairs to bed. That time he just missed the grab. Some say what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. He always said, “Tears before night fall.” He also said I had to eat a peck of dirt before I died.
Out on Crystal Lake with me and
with his other baby, Charlie (1967)
and with Rose & Ryder in Lake Huron (2002).
     He was a lifelong outdoor enthusiast. Up north in Michigan he swam in Lake Huron every day as soon as the ice was gone in Spring. Swimmer, hiker, sailor, cycler, he rode his bicycle to work and was once clocked going 60 mph downhill on the way home. When there was too much snow, he would cross-country ski to work. In kindergarten I rode to school perched on the bar of his bike – no helmet, no child seat (not at 60 mph).
      He taught me to skate when I was two, on an ice patch he made in the backyard. Later he was proud that I was faster than the boys I
played hockey with and just as tough. He made me learn to drink a Manhattan and a martini, because he didn’t want me “falling off my bar stool” if some guy ever tried to take advantage of me (ah, for the days before Rohypnol). And just in case, he taught us the self-defense trick ‘death of the ragdoll’ (ask me about that one sometime).
     In a big winter storm, the snow too deep for cars, we would hike our Flexible Flyers up and fly half a mile down the streets on our sleds, through pristine piles of white, clouds of snowflakes glistening in
streetlights, dogs chasing alongside. Magical moments like these mark my life. I learned the art of carpe diem.
     I always wanted to go to his high school, poring through his yearbooks and alumni magazines. He never bothered to tell me they didn’t accept girls, but then, by some stroke of fortune, Hotchkiss opened the doors and off I went. We shared even more after that – we both played ice hockey. We both memorized the opening stanzas of Chaucer – well into his dementia, he could still recite it more than 60 years later. We both got into some trouble, but not too much. I inherited a series of letters from his
At Hotchkiss (far left) 1947.
headmaster that read “Dear Mrs. Stebbins, I regret to inform you that your son Bill . . . ). Mom pulled out his Hotchkiss yearbook this week and noted that he had been voted most original, most popular, wittiest, kindest, and biggest roughhouser. She was pleased that he lived up to those all his life (with the exception of the last).
In my father's shadow on the
soccer fields at Hotchkiss.
When I broke with tradition and attended Brown University instead of Yale, he sang to me with gusto “What’s the color of horse shit? Brown, Brown, Brown!” Years later he and Mom watched my four-year-old daughter while I was away for a few days. When I returned, she burst out with the Yale fight song, “Bull dog! Bull dog! Bow wow wow. E-li Yale!” Fink.
(He also taught her to make a few gruesome faces.)
     He loved books, often reading in themes: all he could find on the Salem witch trials; the Civil War; the Founding Fathers. He read all of John Le Carré, he loved Hemingway’s Nick Adams stories and later Jim Harrison, who captured the rough and thin landscapes of the Upper Peninsula, where he and Mom spent every summer for 25 years.
Alzheimer’s was a slow progression, bookmarked by losses. He stopped driving. Words failed him. One day he couldn’t read anymore. From the time I was a child, I could count on a book from him at Christmas, anything from Louis Leakey to Michael Crichton. When I was in 4th grade he read me the Odyssey as a bedtime story, and then the Iliad. Decades later we both enjoyed Harry Potter. When he could no longer read, I sent him picture books of dogs and he seemed to enjoy turning the pages, admiring each image. They were continually new to him, which was small solace. I took him to the art museum (“Dad! Don’t touch!” – “Oh! Right, right.” “Dad! Don’t touch!” etc.); to the botanic garden; to the river. I felt as if he were truly living in the moment, even if it wasn’t by choice. He took it all in, bewildered, mostly calm, responding to every birdsong with a whistle in mimicry, thrilled when a bird called back.
     He loved animals and was never without a dog or two. I loved to walk the dogs with him at night, when
Leo getting a bath.
And getting a warm bath.
he taught me the constellations that I still see most nights when I walk my own dogs. Now, the North Star ahead of me, I am surrounded by Ursa Major, Cassopoeia, Orion, the Pleiades, guiding me even under this Western sky. My dog Pepper, a coon hound/lab mix, is a “Yooper” (from the Upper Peninsula, the U.P., “Yoo Pee” for non-Michiganders; one of those terms that’s pejorative unless you are one) whom Dad rescued from a neighbor who beat her. After convincing her abuser to give her up, he drove her down to Detroit and put her on a plane to LAX. I am sad he never got to see the dog she has become here (multi-talented, not without fault, but overflowing with love). He would have loved her, and she him.
     Years ago, he would call a herd of cows to the fenceline, cupping his hands and bellowing until they all came running. Last Spring I took him on a slow, scuffling walk and he did the same thing with a flock of geese on the Huron River, standing on a bridge and honking as they all turned and paddled calmly straight for us. Later he shooed a little boy away from some goslings on the shore, agitated that they might be harmed. There was an essence of him still with us, maybe more connected to the lesser animals around us now than to people.
My grandfather on the venerable Kathea
and Dad, rigging the humble Snipe.
     Dad taught me to sail. He grew up in Watertown, NY, and we heard stories of his father sailing the glorious Kathea (my grandfather died years before I was born). Dad became commodore of our sailing club on Barton Pond in Ann Arbor – hardly the glamourous days of Kathea, but we were on the water in our little Snipe most summer Saturdays. We rarely won, capsized a few times, and even turtled once (boat completely upside down, mast stuck in the mud). But we always showed up, and once in a while we did well: I still have the engraved beer mug to prove it, along with a bowline, half hitch, figure 8, and a few more knots he taught me.
     He loved the water. He taught me to body surf in the rocky shore break of Lake Michigan. He taught me
Mom and Dad on Lake Ontario, late 1970s
to water ski in the Thousand Islands. He was not a fisherman – he once hooked me in the leg with an erratic cast – but he was always game to take me (kudos here to my Mom’s father, who taught me to fish in Maine, and to Mom, who was never afraid to bait the hook). A little over a year ago Dad got stuck in a tidal current in a canal in the Florida Keys and I rescued him in a kayak; it was physically exhausting for both of us, me paddling against the current and dragging him along behind me, gripping the stern line. I kept yelling “Don’t let go! I’m not coming back if you do!” I was only half joking - I imagined him being swept into Florida Bay and I was not sure I could save him. He shouldn’t have been swimming alone, but it was hard to keep him out of the water. We agreed we needed a vodka (neat for him, rocks for me) after that. He forgot it by the next day.
With Mom, Leo & Charlie on skis.
     Last summer I took him for a swim in Lake Huron, one of his last. We forgot our towels, and when Mom came down the path with them he said with an impish urgency “Quick! Get in the water! Here she comes!” He thought she was coming to nix the swim and he was determined to go. We swam out in the waning light for a while, hard up against the current and easily back downwind, him pausing to do his famous ‘dead man’s float.’ He was fine until I had to pull him out – his legs too weak to stand up on the slippery rocks in the shallow water. He was still seizing that chance to dive in at 84.
     Humor was paramount. His best and oldest friends were the most intellectually brilliant, curious, funny, and occasionally profane people I’ve met. A few were literally lifelong friends, cradle to grave. I loved being with them. As a professor, he treated his students like his children (and vice versa, for better or worse: he expected a lot). They were as devoted to him as he was to them, and he was instrumental in setting them on paths to success and to making a difference in the lives of others. Although he won awards, published books, received accolades, his impact in the world was not in those but in the minds of people who were fortunate enough to fall into his sphere of influence. He was proactive in supporting women and minorities at the university. He took students under his wing and counseled them on everything, from academic careers to major personal life decisions. He wasn’t always right, but he was always there to listen.
On the deck with a few of his favorite things: music, coffee,
two Siamese cats and a dog.

He appreciated irreverence. He liked to tell the story of how in kindergarten he threw dog poo on a dare at Viggo Mortensen’s mother, whom he grew up with (I think he had a crush on her his whole life; I can’t remember if he actually hit her or not, but this story resisted the breach of Alzheimer’s). When my mother served us corned beef on toast, as soon as she was out of earshot he would say, “We used to call this SOS in the army – shit on a shingle.” He wasn’t often crass, just funny. He loved limericks, my sister’s dirty jokes, tongue twisters and puns. He taught me to play chess and to shoot the moon in Hearts. There were wicked games of croquet and ping pong and charades. Once he led me and my sisters and our boyfriends on a run through the snowy woods in time to shoot bottle rockets at the 5:15 Amtrak (bottle rockets were fired, although we were well out of range).
Giving instruction in cutthroat Peggity.
     One sweet line in his obituary is about his survivors: wife, daughters, son-in-law, grandchildren, sister, and his beloved dog, Rose. She is
Goofing off in the woods with Ryder.
indeed a wonderful dog, the final one who aged along with him into senior status. They were certified as a therapy team and even in his 80s he would tell me he was taking Rose to visit the “old folks’ home.” Even when his memory was mostly gone, when he didn’t really know who we were anymore, he could still talk about the dog. “She’s a peach,” he would say, “a real gem.” Last month he said to me, “She’s a real pitch.” I corrected him, “Peach, Dad, peach.” “Oh, right, peach. Peach.” We both laughed. His humor stayed with him even when just about everything else was gone.
     My Dad’s last gift was posthumous, a final contribution to the many he made to science during his lifetime, as his body was donated to the University of Michigan Medical School. As for Rose, I often wondered which of them would leave us first. After he died, Mom said she wished there were some way she could let Rose know, but I bet she knows. That’s her, sitting to attention in front of him, in the picture with the formal obituary (http://obits.mlive.com/obituaries/annarbor/obituary.aspx?pid=174728102). His beloved Rose. As he often said, tears before night fall.
On the Pacific Coast with some friends.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

When Life Gives You Lemons

When life gives you lemons, say Aloha
6x8" oil on canvas panel Jan 1 2015

It's the first day of a new year, and the first day of the Thirty Paintings in Thirty Days challenge from painter Leslie Saeta. I'm in.
I am not sorry to see 2014 disappear into the fading twilight. It was a difficult year for me. My marriage of nearly 20 years ended; the slope of my father's dementia took a sharp turn toward darkness; and my best release seemed to vaporize, as I found myself uninspired and painting less and less, and less satisfied when I did paint.

As we launch into the new year, I'm hopeful that I can navigate these new shoals and find the lightness that exists, like when a flash of sunlight enters the ocean and illuminates the neon, rainbow-colored tropical fish against the dull hues of Hawaiian rocks and reefs.
Kapalua trail hike, north shore.

To celebrate the passing of 2014, my daughter and I spent the last week of the year on the island of Kauai. Braving what could have been the worst weather there, we were completely lucky to find plenty of sunshine and temperatures that were not too hot and not too cool (unless you're actually from Hawaii, in which case it was, according to some of the locals, "freezing").
We swam and snorkeled, ziplined, kayaked, hiked, flew off rope swings into chilly freshwater pools in old lava tubes, watched sunrises and sunsets, and cruised around the whole island in our convertible Mustang with "TOURIST" emblazoned on the side (not really, but it might as well have had), singing out loud to a private playlist. We saw rainbows, and more rainbows. We watched 5 straight hours of NCIS one night. We ate a lot of Kalua pork, BBQ ribs, and teriyaki beef (her) and fresh, fresh fish (ono, ahi, mahi mahi) and good local IPAs (me) and roughly 2 pounds of super sweet, fresh pineapple a day. It was a great way to end a not-so-great year.
National Tropical Botanical Garden

On our last day, we headed up to the Kilauea lighthouse and wildlife sanctuary for spectacular views toward Na Pali across the phthalo and turquoise waters of Hanalei Bay, along with some gorgeous bird spottings (red footed booby, nene, Hawaiian cardinal, albatross). By the time we reached the Hanalei pier a short while later, the winds picked up and within 10 minutes we were completely drenched, holding hands as we ran off the pier so we wouldn't get blown off the side (I should note that at 16, my daughter doesn't hold my hand very often, so this too was a treat). It was a fitting end to a perfect week on Kauai, even though we had to put the roof up on the Mustang. We saw a double rainbow and had lunch in a tin-roofed bistro, listening to the rain wail down in sheets.

Storm approaching across Hanalei Bay
So now we're back and it's cold here in Southern California (no, really! we had to put extra quilts and blankets on the beds last night, it was in the 30s! I'm about to light a fire in the woodstove). But we're ready to tackle the new year, and as proof, my first painting of the 30-day challenge: When life gives you lemons, say Aloha, which means many things (hello, goodbye, I love you) but is more the embodiment of the spirit of Hawaii. I hope to keep it in my heart all year.
With that in mind, I would like to say thank you to my friends and family who have provided me with so much love, patience, and support this past year. To you I say Aloha, and I am extremely grateful for you all. Bring on the new year, and keep an eye out for lots of new paintings.

Our final sunset in Kapa'a





Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Northern Light: Anders Zorn in San Francisco


Walk, Anders Zorn, 1906 (photo in public domain).
I traveled to San Francisco last weekend to visit friends and see two exhibitions: Anders Zorn at the Palace of the Legion of Honor, and David Hockney at the DeYoung. Different in style, scope, and scale, they were both worth the trip.

Aside from painting and teaching, visiting museums is one of my favorite pastimes, and the Palace of the Legion of Honor did not disappoint. The Zorn show included 100 works of watercolor and oil paintings, prints, and a few small bronze statuettes.

Anders Zorn (1860-1920) was a Swedish painter whose career rivaled that of his contemporaries, including French impressionists like Claude Monet and the American portrait painter John Singer Sargent. Zorn began painting at an early age, mastering watercolors while in his teens. At the height of his career, in the early 1900s, he was reportedly earning $15,000 per week from his portraits, including three of our American presidents; a large, casual portrait of Theodore Roosevelt was included in this exhibit.

Summerdance, Anders Zorn
(photo in public domain)

His watercolors demonstrate complete confidence in his palette, from which he captures the beauty of skin tones suffused in a softly dispersed light. He mastered the art of painting water, posing figures and boats in compositions which feature the complex surface and depths of the waters around them. He moved on to oil painting as he traveled through Europe and Algeria, interacting with other artists and gaining increasingly significant portrait commissions as well as capturing the customs, costumes, and landscapes.

There was a series of stunning nude figures in the landscape, often portrayed bathing in the cold northern lakes of Scandinavia. It was interesting to see them as prints and also as larger oil paintings. Zorn was equally adept at landscapes and still life work, but for me, his figures were the most breathtaking. In addition to what might be considered “celebrity portraits,” he devoted his energies toward capturing the culture and people of the rural Swedish countryside where he grew up, and this legacy is a gift to us today.

For icing on the cake, there was a small Matisse exhibit next door. After the light-infused impressions of Zorn, Matisse’s works seem shocking with their the flat surfaces and brilliant, gaudy colors. The contrast gives a sense of the shock to the art world when Matisse first presented his work, and a visit to the two shows is like a condensed trip into art history.
And now for something completely different:
Portrait of Lydia Delectorskaya by
Henri Matisse (arthermitage.com)




Thursday, January 9, 2014

A Life in Art: Paying It Forward

I love to paint paths.
I love to paint, and I love to write, and I love to teach. And like all of us, there are many things I don't love so much, but which take up a lot of the waking hours of our lives (did I mention that I also love to sleep? And I love to dream, which I do vividly most nights).



They invite our minds to wander.
There are so many things we don't love to do but we do them anyway, because they have to be done. Sometimes we get feedback - appreciation, gratitude, or disapprobation, and hopefully this feedback enables us to improve our work. All of this is a longwinded way of saying that I have undertaken the not-so-fun chore of updating my website (which I should do more frequently, I know). I would love for you to take a look at www.rebeccastebbins.com and let me know what you think.

And to wonder what might
be around that curve,
It is an up-to-date compilation of my paintings, presented in a way that I hope is easy to see.  It is a work in progress, as I move forward with paintings and move backward with cataloging, marketing, blogging, etc. So it's not all fun and games, but in the end, it's the feedback that feeds the soul: the collector whose life is enriched by the art created; the student whose life is pushed forward by the skills, knowledge, and promise that my tutelage has provided. My own fulfillment is living in the  moment of creativity, my own and that of other people.

or what might be over that hill. (from the top,
Carpintera Bluffs; Fields near Angles sur l'Anglin;
Along the Tracks to Rincon; & Rincon Hill from the Bluffs.
The creative life may not be lucrative, but it pays dividends that are beyond calculation, as I pass on the skills, techniques, concepts, and ideas that will allow a whole gang of young people to experience and explore their own worlds - and their own minds - in ways that will enrich their lives as well. I try to pay it forward, and I know that my students will do the same.